This is completely non-scientific. However, last night I did some side-by-side comparison of the two methods for Streaming Star Trek: Discovery. I used an Amazon 3-day trial of CBS All Access and compared it to the native CBS All Access app. I definitely experienced better picture and had no buffering interruptions.
It appears that the Vudu app for Apple TV4 is in the app store right now. My UltraViolet collection on the Apple TV – what a glorious day!
UPDATE: This solution has a critical flaw. The sound effects when running an Android client DO NOT WORK! (No Warp Drive, Torpedo, Phaser, or incoming damage sounds.) If I can find a fix, I will update this post.
I LOVE Artemis Bridge Simulator. If you haven’t played it, go find six friends and get together with your laptops for a super good time! However, there is a trick to successfully being able to play Artemis – you have to own enough equipment to build a bridge. It takes SIX computers or iOS/Android devices all running the same version of the game to play! Mrs. Mindcrime and I host two games a year in our home where we run two bridges for 12-player mayhem. I have one bridge made up of an old gaming PC and five Windows 98 craigslist laptops that are set up only for use on Artemis night. The other bridge tends to be a hodgepodge of our other gear and anything that friends bring over. Since Artemis runs on a home network it is susceptible to all kinds of issues from interference from firewalls to TV Tuner Cards (one of my earliest posts on this blog). Therefore, anytime I can find a piece of home hardware that I can also use for Artemis (and pre-configure to play nice on my network) I get pretty excited.
I’ve put a BRIEF review and a video clip of Artemis Bridge Simulator at the end of this article.
So, I thought I’d gamble on trying out the new Nvidia Shield TV. The Shield TV runs Android TV as it’s OS which is essentially Android. There is an Artemis App for Android, so I figured it shouldn’t be too hard to put the Artemis app on to the Shield TV. I ran into some serious difficulty with side-loading the app onto the Shield TV. I do not own any other Android devices. I did once, and I installed Artemis on the device after paying for the app. However, the Google Play store does not let you download APKs (essentially Android programs) to your PC directly. Many of the instructions online which show how to install APKs on the Shield TV are assuming that you either have the APK already on a thumb drive OR you are willing to download it from a 3rd party source. I was in neither position. Let me just say this now – The technique I am describing is ONLY for use if you have PAID for the Artemis Android app and do not have another Android device to run it on. Otherwise, what you are doing is piracy. Artemis is not a game created by some gigantic faceless corporation where piracy might be erroneously rationalized as some kind of Robin Hood inspired activity. Nope, it’s a game developed by a dude named Tom in Ohio – good ‘ol fashioned entrepreneurial moxy and he deserves to be paid for his hard work (and the joy he brings to so many lives).
#1: Install ES File Manager and Sideload Launcher from the Google Play Store on your Shield TV.
#2: You will need to go into your computer’s BIOS and turn on “Intel Virtualization Technology”. It is most likely set to “Disabled” and you will need to set it to “Enabled”. If you don’t know how to do this, you might want to Google it and watch an instructional video first. It is my understanding that turning this feature on will not impact a PC’s performance.
#3: Download DuOS from American Megatrends website – this is an emulator that will let you run a virtual Android device on your PC. It is from American Megatrends (they are a PC Bios developer) and a reputable company. The trail version will do the job. I’d recommend buying a copy because you will need to repeat this procedure every time Artemis Bridge Simulator for Android is updated.
#4: Next open DuOS and go to the Settings page. Under Display Setting tick the box for “Show the Select Button” (it should be blue). If you don’t do this – the rest of the instructions will drive you INSANE!
#5: DuOS comes with the Amazon App Store pre-installed. You can BUY a copy of the app there for $3 by logging in with your Amazon ID. That’s what I did and it’s worth it – 1000X over, it is sooooo worth it!
#6: Once you have done that you should be able to follow the directions contained in this you tube video to get the APK on to the Nvidia Shield TV. You will need some kind of cloud drive (Such as Google Drive) to make this work. The button-ology is slightly different since the YouTuber is working on an android device and you are using an emulator. But it should become clear how to use the technique below after clicking around some. The video might seem a bit long, but he does an excellent job of covering the details.
#7: Once you have installed the Artemis Android app on your Nvidia Shield TV, you can launch it from the Sideload Launcher App. You will want a wireless keyboard with track-pad or trackball plugged into the Shield TV’s USB port to navigate the initial setup of the app. I plugged in a standard wireless keyboard with trackball from another PC in the house and it worked fine.
When you “Start Server” you will quickly notice that for some reason the Artemis App can’t read the network address for the Shield TV.
#8: Therefore, the next step is to look in your router’s settings and find the device list. There you will find the IP address for every device on your network. On my ASUS router, the Shield was identified as “Nvidia Shield”.
#9: Start your client machines and put in the address for the Shield TV from the router – not the 0.0.0.0 network address. I was able to connect to the Shield TV with my iPhone and was able to steer the ship etc (running multiple stations from my phone).
Side note: I have not yet tested this in a full 2-bridge Artemis night and drinking fest situation. However I am confident it should work.
What the Heck is Artemis Bridge Simulator??
Watch this video from Rev3Games which does a good job of explaining Artemis Bridge Simulator. If you are a Star Trek fan like me, the minute you discover that Artemis exists…your life will change forever! The best thing about Artemis is that it can’t be played over the internet (at least not well). Artemis forces you to get your friends together, like a good old-fashioned LAN party! Eat pizza! Be social! Even people who do not like video games (like Mrs. Mindcrime) or Star Trek (*GASP!*) love playing Artemis, because the fun isn’t the game itself as much as the interactions between friends!
A note on objectivity: I chose to identify where I purchased some items in my setup in this article. I do not get kickbacks of any kind for my articles (I don’t even get ad revenue – WordPress does for the free use of the website.) I mention specific products and websites because as a home theater enthusiast I know how difficult it can be to solve certain problems and when I discover solutions I post them here just to be helpful to my fellow enthusiasts.
Mrs. Mindcrime was generous this holiday season…she bought yours truly a very nice multi-channel amp! (How did she know? It helps if you just email your spouse the Amazon Link!)
This is my brief review of the OSD MX-1260 Multi-Zone Amp. Currently selling for around $615.
The amp has 12 channels (6 stereo zones) at 40 Watts Per Channel and in short, it does exactly what it is designed to do. Hit the power button and six pairs of speakers get 40-watts per channel. This solves two big problems for people like me who enjoy having music pumped throughout the entire house.
The Problems I Needed to Solve:
Every time I open up some drywall in our home I pause to ask, “How can this allow me to have more speakers?”. As a result, we now have six separate speaker zones wired to a central location in our house. Each zone has a local volume dial that allows a person in a room with speakers to increase or decrease the volume in that location without affecting the other zones in the home. The problem was that the amplifier (An Onkyo TX-NR626 pushing 95 Watts per channel from Zone 2) was connected to a Series Resistor Type Speaker Switch. Obviously, connecting too many speakers to a single amplifier channel can cause problems with impedance which are damaging to both the amp and the speakers. The speaker switch with “protection” solves the impedance problem – but at a cost. Watts per channel diminish precipitously and speaker performance does too. Not to mention when using the local volume controls there was not much discretion in the volume levels – most of the time it would be hard to turn the volume down or up just a “little bit” and the volume controls would feel like they were all-or-nothing.
(There is a great website which explains the science behind this much better than I can and includes fantastic calculators for different multi-speaker wiring configurations – go check out this guy’s work at: Geoff the Grey Geek! I borrowed heavily from his explanation of the Series Resistor Type Speaker Switch in my analysis and used his calculator to get the results below.)
Using Geoff’s calculator you can see how an example 100 watts per channel becomes 11.6 when driving three pairs of speakers and 3.5 watts per channel when driving six pairs!
There was one other problem too: the speaker selector switch requires you to know which zone is which speaker number and the buttons to turn on Zone 2 on the Onkyo amp are tiny! On other amps the receiver’s remote is the only way to activate a second zone. This made it so my setup was not “Wife Proof”. Mrs. Mindcrime found it frustrating to locate the instruction sheet for the setup and as a result was not using the system at all (or was using me an “organic universal remote”!) Side note: There are people starving and fleeing war zones in the world – home audio issues are nice problems to have in comparison.
The OSD MX-1260 (and it’s kin):
A multi-channel amp seemed a logical solution to our distributed audio problems. Multi-channel amps can get incredibly expensive and while over $600 is nothing to sneeze at, the OSD MX-1260 seemed a reasonable way to solve the above problems. The amp cranks out 6 zones of sound at 40 watts per channel simultaneously. So far as I can tell there are two other amps that have nearly identical specs to the OSD MX-1260. They are the AudioSource AMP1200VS and the Dayton Audio MA1240a. The differences between these amplifiers seem to be almost exclusively cosmetic (I would not be surprised if they are all produced by a common manufacturer). I chose mine based upon what was on sale at Amazon Prime on the day of purchase. All of these models seem to offer the ability to adjust volume on the back panel by zone, select one of three input options by zone, and have block-style speaker connectors.
Making all of the audio connections took some patience, but was not inherently complicated. I can tell you that when you go to work with the tiny block connectors, it is super helpful to have a 1/8″ precision screwdriver. I started the job without one and it was worth my time to run to the corner hardware store and have the right tool for the job! The block connectors are fantastic for simplifying wiring and beat the heck out of the clip connectors you find on the back of most speaker switches.
The lights on the front panel are a bright blue and the unit is the standard width of audio equipment. The owners manual indicated not to block the top vents, but did not offer any specifics regarding ventilation requirements. As you can see from the picture below, I stacked my Onkyo receiver on top of the multi-channel amp which left approximately 1/2″ of ventilation space. I ran the amp for 10 hours straight running all six channels simultaneously and it did not appear to overheat.
My one complaint is about the brushed metal on the front panel. It is a dirt/dust/fingerprint magnet and I can tell that it is going to be a pain to keep clean. I wish they’d used an easier to maintain surface. They also need to include more specific details on maintenance in the owner’s manual. See the smears on the MX-1260 amp in the picture above? That was AFTER I tried to clean it! UGH! Untidy!
The “Wife Proof” Whole Home Audio Setup
In our case music is provided through an Apple TV 4 which outputs to an HDMI audio extractor ( I use this one: AGPTEK HDMI Audio Extractor) and connects the extractor’s RCA outputs to the BUS 1 input on the back of the amp. All zones have been set to get input from BUS 1. I started with most zones set to 50% volume, but then increased the power to approximately 75% volume for two of my zones which have larger speakers.
Here is a schematic that looks like a stoned kindergartner was set loose on MS Paint. It should however help if the above explanation was unclear.
Another tip: Use a “Smart Strip” to cut power to the multi-channel amp when your receiver is switched off ! I haven’t tested the auto-on feature of the MX-1260, but I prefer the smart strips because they turn off any controlled equipment cold. You can find them for around $35 online. I used the Smart Strip LCG-3M to kill power to my Xbox, multi-channel amp, xbox controller charger, and subwoofer every time the Onkyo receiver is turned off. The Apple TV and the HDMI audio extractor get power all the time (for Apple Homekit and it seems to mess with the audio extractor – not to mention CEC functionality – if the extractor is turned on and off.)
Another advantage of this setup is that if you are using a CEC compatible receiver, you can control the entire setup with the Apple TV 4’s remote. (I’m sure that this setup will work fine with any other kind of modern music streamer or source that you would prefer, I just happen to use the ATV4.) That means the whole home audio setup can be activated just by pressing the TV (or Home) button on the Apple TV 4’s remote. Additionally since the ATV4’s remote is Bluetooth based, the ATV does not need to stick out of the cabinet and the controller works regardless of where it is pointed. I have the ATV unit tucked into the cabinet pictured above behind the subwoofer.
The sound quality difference was noticeable when compared with the old setup. I do not claim to have a golden ear, but I did sell stereos for a number of years to pay for college and I think I know descent sound when I hear it. Nor, do I have the means to scientifically test for sound quality, but I can tell you that not only I noticed – but Mrs. Mindcrime did too! (That says something – she doesn’t share the same level of passion for home audio as I do.) Clearly pushing 40 watts per channel to speakers sounds clearer than pushing 3 to 12 watts per channel! If it passes the wife-test, you know you have a winner.
The OSD MX-1260 solved my two problems, poor sound from low wattage reaching my speakers and local volume control is now much more discreet. It also resulted in a much more user friendly home audio setup. I will update this post in the coming months if I have any difficulties with the equipment.
12/20/17 – System still works great! However I would reccomend using a different auido extractor that the one mentioned above. It works fine still, however if you have a newer TV and a 4k/HDR streamer, you will want to make sure that your audio extractor is HDMI 2.X and HDCP 2.2 complaint to take full advantage of HDR and 4K. My setup is largely 1080p and upgrading to 4K will require replacing the audio extractor.
MICROSOFT HAS JUST SCREWED OVER SOME OF ITS CUSTOMERS!
I’ve had a rough draft of a review for the Xbox One’s digital tuner sitting in my drafts folder for over a year now. I just never got around to finishing the article, and at a certain point it seemed logical to just wait and review both the tuner and the DVR when the promised DVR features are enabled in 2016 (presumably after E3 next week.) Well today it was announced that Microsoft is abandoning their plans for the XBOX ONE to have a DVR. And I am pretty frickin’ angry at them over it.
For fans of Windows Media Center, things have been a bit grim for a while. WMC has been ignored, become buggy, and finally the word came down from Redmond that Windows Media Center would be no more. Regular readers also know that I was TERRIBLY DISSAPOINTED by the multimedia features of the Xbox One when it came out in 2013. Of course, that assumes that this site has anything resembling a ‘regular reader’.
For a while, it looked like Microsoft had a few plans that will restore to the Xbox One some of the features of the Xbox360 when used with Media Center. Streaming my music library (after it has been uploaded to OneDrive) and supposedly supporting FLAC after Windows 10’s release looked like promising improvements – but never lived up to their potential in my own testing . Dolby Digital has been added to Blu-Ray playback and now there is the ability to watch live television – so gee-whiz the XB1 finally does the job of $65 blu-ray player and a $15 HDTV antenna. Not bad for my initial $499 investment on day one. Then in 2015 Microsoft promised us that the Xbox One will get DVR functionality within the next year. Even a die hard WMC fan such as myself would have had to admit that having DVR right on the console would have been a big plus over the old server-client design that was used with WMC and the Xbox360.
As soon as the promised DVR was announced I went out and purchased the TV Tuner. It is a usb tuner from Hauppauge that retails for roughly $60. (Yes, it was stupid of me to buy something in anticipation of a future functionality. I know – but I was excited.)
Nonetheless, I picked one up and decided to give it a test run. My enthusiasm for the tuner stemmed from the promise that if the XB1 added DVR, then it would become the only streaming device that can do live TV, Amazon Prime, HBO, HULU and Netflix. (For a meager $300 more than it’s closest rivals – the Apple TV and the Roku.) Fortunately, I didn’t spend the extra $99 for another external hard drive which Microsoft specified would be necessary to enable the DVR features.
The tuner sets up easily and does deliver a good live picture. I’ve used it twice, to watch the Superbowl. Other than that – without a DVR – it is a paperweight.
I have been a Microsoft fanboy for years, but this may be the last straw for me. The Xbox One is a descent gaming machine, but is only as good for home theater use as a $40 Roku streaming stick. Quite frankly, I’m not even super impressed with the games anymore and have been spending more time on Steam than Xbox Live. I think that a Steam Link may be in my future and Microsoft will have to work pretty damn hard to get my loyalty back.
Microsoft – the hardware is there, the tuner is there, the OTA programming guides are there – why won’t you finish the job?? This was a promised feature and some of us spent money on the tuner. Personally, I feel they ought to initiate a refund program to allow people to get some kind of credit for their old tuners (or their new paperweights – either way you want to look at it).
So in the final analysis – the Xbox One digital tuner is a DON’T BUY item. Without the DVR features, it is no better than a cheap HDTV antenna.
My Google Chrome taskbar shortcuts were changed at some point and it has been driving me completely nuts trying to get them set up again! I’d unpin and re-pin, but any chrome taskbar shortcut would just open up the most recently used profile – not the one that I thought I had pinned to the taskbar. This feature is really nice if your work uses Google Apps and you don’t want work knowing about your top-secret anonymous blog!
I finally figured out what the problem is. Somehow one of the profiles became known to chrome as “Default”.
Here was the solution:
#1: Uninstall Chrome completely.
#2: Reinstall Chrome
#3: Open Chrome but DO NOT LOG IN!
#4: Click on the “Profile Switcher” button in the top right corner.
#5: Choose Add another person and go through the login. DO NOT Delete Person 1.
#6: When the separate Chrome instance opens for the person/profile you just added you will notice that it has the correct icon on the taskbar. Right click on the taskbar instance and choose “pin to taskbar”.
#7: To add additional taskbar shortcuts reopen Person 1 (the default profile – accessible through the Chrome Shortcut that was put on your desktop when Chrome was reinstalled) and then repeat steps 5 and 6.
I have experimented extensively with lossless audio and the Groove Music service. Then I got curious, how does the streaming audio compare between both services?
Normally, to compare streaming audio quality in a scientifically valid manner the streaming audio files would need to be compared using identical equipment – except that type of experiment contains an inherent fallacy when it comes to music streaming.
These days when you purchase a service or a piece of equipment you are buying into a digital ecosystem. Usually, when combining services and devices, there are benefits (both tangible and intangible) to being monogamous to one ecosystem. Have an android phone? Then google Music will work more smoothly than other music providers. The same goes for Apple and Microsoft.
So I did my audio test in my home theater and compared the audio quality of Groove Music playing though the XBOX One vs Apple Music playing on an Apple TV 3.
All other equipment stayed the same – reasonably high end equipment, nothing too crazy expensive – after all running a free blog where you discuss electronics and rant against gun owners isn’t very lucrative! (Boston Acoustics Tower Speakers, Onkyo Receiver, Golden Ear Force Field subwoofer). In both cases the devices were streaming uncompressed HDMI and the sound settings on the amplifier were identical.
It was no contest. The Apple TV streaming from Apple Music’s sound quality blew away the Xbox One streaming from Groove Music. It wasn’t even close. Heck – even Mrs. Mindcrime could tell the difference and described the sound of the music from Groove on the Xbox One as “muffled and muddy”.
This is by no means a scientific test, however if you are considering shelling out for Groove Music – and as a Microsoft fanboy I hate to say this – you should probably give Apple Music a listen first.